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    Home » On board the Vædderen: It smells a bit like New Year
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    On board the Vædderen: It smells a bit like New Year

    Greenland ReviewBy Greenland ReviewJune 16, 2025005 Mins Read
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    Most people have seen the big gray ship sailing between the white ice floes, but few have been aboard. KNR got a special insight into life aboard the inspection ship, the Vædderen.

    The wind is strong. White swells push the ship from side to side. A red flag is hoisted. This signals that the ship is now dangerous.

    – Leave! shouts the commander.

    A soldier stands by the large, heavy machine gun mounted on the side of the inspection ship, the Vædderen. With a movement of his arm, he pulls the handle on the side of the machine gun.

    – Stop! he shouts back 

    Shortly afterwards he receives the signal to fire. The target: an iceberg peacefully floating in the Davis Strait, 800 meters from the ship. A volley of deafening gunfire breaks the peace.

    – Change of gunnery! The commander shouts.

    Now it’s Mai’s turn. She is 23 years old and works as a ship’s steward.

    – Don’t we have a smaller helmet? she asks.

    After a quick helmet change, Mai is ready. The ice cream scoop is right in the crosshairs.

    – Open fire! shouts the commander.

    The ice cream cone doesn’t stand a chance. A large piece of ice pops. Applause erupts. The smoke from the cartridges mixes with the wind. It smells a bit like New Year’s.

    From port to port

    Although the inspection ships are easy to recognize as they patrol the fjords, few people know what everyday life is like for those who monitor our coasts. In addition to the monthly shooting exercises, the days often follow a set routine where everyone knows what to do.

    – As a ship’s guest, we do a lot of practical things like cleaning and maintenance. We help out where needed, says 23-year-old Mai from her two-person cabin on the ship.

    Series: Future Defense in the Arctic

    A robust defense in Greenland and the Arctic is central to security in the West, both Trump and politicians here and in Denmark have said time and again. A billion-dollar investment in the navy is therefore close to being launched, and the worn-out ships patrolling in Greenland and the Faroe Islands must be replaced.

    KNR has visited one of the old ships that will soon be retired.

    She has worked as a ship’s steward for two years and has sailed to both Greenland and the Faroe Islands, among other places. But life at sea began long before that.

    – My family has always sailed. I was also on the training ship, Georg Stage, she says.

    Her cabin is on the second lowest deck, just above the engine room. That means no portholes – but she has compensated for the lack of light herself.

    – We’ve made it a little cozier here by hanging up a string of lights, she says.

    Lack of daylight doesn’t mean lack of mood. Mai loves being in a place where she can travel and experience something new.

    – The most fun thing is probably sailing the rubber boat, says Mai with a smile.

    Last names of participants

    In this article, we have chosen not to include the last names of some of the cast members of Vædderen. This is out of concern for their privacy and safety.

    In this article, we have chosen not to include the last names of some of the cast members of Vædderen. This is out of concern for their privacy and safety.

    KNR knows the full identity of the participants.

    KNR knows the full identity of the participants.

    The most important job on the ship

    In Mai’s cabin, the smell of fried fish begins to waft. It comes from the galley – just a short walk and two left turns away.

    Down in the galley stands Søren, 32, a student chef. He is busy preparing the day’s meals for the approximately 70 people on board – a job that many call the most important

    – Tonight it’s fish and chips with tartar sauce and fries, he says, while squeezing mayonnaise into a bowl.

    – It’s like cooking for your family, he says.

    Another person who occasionally helps out in the galley is Natasha “Doc.” The ship’s doctor. And while her primary duties don’t include food, she’s happy to help out wherever help is needed.

    – I have many functions. In addition to consultations and emergency incidents, I take water samples, do hygiene inspections – and peel carrots when I have time, she says with a laugh.

    For Natasha, the job as a doctor is also about creating a safe space – a place where you can show up, regardless of whether it concerns physical or mental health.

    – The hospital is a neutral place where everyone can come, even if they have something on their mind. That’s why I spend a lot of time getting to know people, she says.

    She often does this in the afternoon, when she walks around the ship and talks to the crew. According to her, no one shows up unless they trust her first.

    A temporary family

    Aboard the Vædderen, the crew is far from home, but not alone. Everyone is united by routines, responsibilities and a common goal of keeping both ship and community afloat.

    Here side by side for eight weeks, they work closely – across disciplines and functions. Everyday life requires flexibility and collaboration. Søren provides the food, Natasha takes the temperature of both people and systems, and Mai handles everything from moorings to inflatable boats.

    – You quickly become close when you sail together for eight weeks, says Mai.

    When so many people are gathered in such a small space, collegiality is quickly put to the test.

    Some describe it as a kind of temporary family. Just with more camouflage. And more orders.

    Back on deck, the shooting practice is over.

    Over the speakers it says: – It is once again permitted to move on the deck without hearing protection!

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